Even Rob and Rose got a Kodak moment.

What’s next for the R&R Kedger Team? Trekking!

Hi Friends,

R&R Kedger was an awesome adventure.  75 years worth of two week vacations and a lot more.  However, what’s up next?

Well, starting on May 1, 2018, Rob is going to start hiking the Pacific Crest Trail with Rose providing lots of wonderful support.  If you’d like to follow along on this next adventure in America’s western states, head on over to http://www.BrontidePeak.com/Trek.  At the bottom of any blog article there should be a checkbox and a place to subscribe for future updates.

Fair winds,
Rob

Captain’s Log, Stardate 69655.3, Final Entry

Dateline: March 10, 2016, Lakeside, California, USA

It's been an amazing three years and a pleasure meeting so many interesting people.

It’s been an amazing three years and a pleasure meeting so many interesting people.

Nearly three years ago we moved onto our boat to prepare to go cruising.  Now, R&R, Rob & Rose are back in San Diego.  R&R Kedger, the boat, is for sale in Fort Lauderdale.  We spent ten intense days preparing R&R Kedger for sale.  Most of that time was spent moving personal items off the boat and polishing and cleaning. We purchased a van to store our personal items until we were ready for the trip home.

Then the time came.  We moved her to a dock at a residence along the New River in Ft. Lauderdale, and in a bittersweet moment, walked away.

The map below shows our loop.   The first portion, approximately 8000 nautical miles, took over two and a half years.  The last part, a little over 2600 statute miles, took a mere 7 days including stops to see family and friends.

Observations from the Voyage:

Changes in Latitude, Changes in Attitude (Ok, so this is generalizations and stereotypes, but there are reasons why humans stereotype.):

  • More trusting of people. Less trusting of governments.
  • The US is a violent nation. And worse, we accept and expect it.
  • Mother Nature wins. Just deal with it.
  • Less. Less truly is more. It can be much more once you get the hang of it.
  • Buddha was right. Craving “something else” is the root of all human unhappiness.  Granted, craving can be a positive motivator also.  But you should understand and appreciate the difference.

Favorite places:

  • For lifestyle: Barra de Navidad, Mexico. Why? You can live on a boat, yet have all of the amenities of a world class resort, while being a $1- water taxi ride away from a full-service true Mexican town (even if there are quite a few Canadian snowbirds with condos there).  Good restaurants and markets with wonderful fresh food!  All for about ¾ the price of a night at a Days Inn motel in the States.  Sweet!
  • For environment: Costa Rica. Why?  Great cloud forests, animals, and butterflies.  Also outdoor activities like zip-lining (which they call ‘canopy tours’), inner tubing, horseback riding, spelunking, and mud baths.  It’s also clean, i.e., little litter compared to other countries, including our own.
  • For water activities: Belize. Why?  The spectrum of blue colored, clear, warm water with plenty of tropical fish for snorkeling.  A protected ‘inland’ ocean that runs lengthwise perpendicular to the trade winds.  That makes for some terrific beam reach sailing on smooth water.  Love it.
  • For making life-long friends: El Salvador. Why?  The El Salvador Rally creates a unique environment where a concentration of experiences can be shared both on and off the boat.  We have met wonderful people in many places along the way, but the people we met in El Salvador will be close friends forever.  Oh, an it is an excellent jump-off location for land travel to the other ‘4C’ countries (El Salvador, Guatamala, Honduras, and Nicaragua).

Most Interesting Thing

  • For Rob: Scratching the surface of the history of humanity and its behaviors, something I never had the time to do while being an intense engineer.  Oh, and the people.
  • For Rose: That Central America was so much friendlier and non-threatening than the impression we’d developed from sitting here in the United States watching our news, movies, and other media.

Next

We’re back in San Diego now, planning the next third of our lives.  Suggestions always welcomed.  Although, right now it seems to me like we lived more life in the last three years than many people live in their entire lives.

Fair winds

Click to open interactive map in a new window

Click to open interactive map in a new window

 

We made it an important, explicit effort to 'build our luck' while we were cruising. This cookie fortune arrived during our last week on the boat.

We made it an important, explicit effort to ‘build our luck’ while we were cruising. This cookie fortune arrived during our last week on the boat.

Stainless steel. Stain Less. Not stain free. There's always a little more to do. It's part of building our luck (to sell the boat we hope).

Stainless steel. Stain Less. Not stain free. There’s always a little more to do. It’s part of building our luck (to sell the boat we hope).

Wax on. Wax off. Building more luck.

Wax on. Wax off. Building more luck.

Locking for the final time.

Locking for the final time.

Bittersweet. A fellow former cruiser described the feeling well with that one word.

Bittersweet. A fellow former cruiser described the feeling well with that one word.

One last hug...

One last hug…

... and now here she waits for her next owner to appreciate.

… and now here she waits for her next owner to appreciate.

The world suddenly expanded. Everything is bigger! Do you have any idea how big a king size bed really is?!!! Wow, you can get lost in there.

The world suddenly expanded. Everything is bigger! Do you have any idea how big a king size bed really is?!!! Wow, you can get lost in there.

... and crazy good food. Tacos! Yeah! Fish, pork, and chicken... with a shrimp salad. Oh how I missed Mexican food while we were in the Bahamas.

… and crazy good food. Tacos! Yeah! Fish, pork, and chicken… with a shrimp salad. Oh how I missed Mexican food while we were in the Bahamas.

You'd think we'd had had enough of beaches. But ... well, maybe just a little more. The Gulf of Mexico looked pretty calm and blue as we passed through Destin, Florida. Several people told us it would be worth the stop. They were right.

You’d think we’d had had enough of beaches. But … well, maybe just a little more. The Gulf of Mexico looked pretty calm and blue as we passed through Destin, Florida. Several people told us it would be worth the stop. They were right.

And, while we thought we were done traveling over the water for a while, we were wrong! But the swell and the wind were accommodating. I hardly noticed them at all!

And, while we thought we were done traveling over the water for a while, we were wrong! But the swell and the wind were accommodating. I hardly noticed them at all!

Did I mention that we are back in the States? You can find these treats at EVERY Texas Stop Sign.

Did I mention that we are back in the States? You can find these treats at EVERY Texas Stop Sign.

A Texas Stop Sign ... just in case you didn't know.

A Texas Stop Sign … just in case you didn’t know.

I'm not sure where we're going as we launch into space, but once we land I'll let you know. Until then, Fair Winds!

I’m not sure where we’re going as we launch into space, but once we land I’ll let you know. Until then, Fair Winds!

Closing this Chapter … It Begins!

Dateline: February 29, 2016, Cooley’s Landing, Ft. Lauderdale, Florida, USA

It’s official.  We’re coming back to land and R&R Kedger is up for sale.

I once queried a wise cruiser, “How do you know when you’re finished?”  He said, “You’ll know.”  I pressed, “Yes, but how will you know?”  He expanded, “Well, when you start cruising, and you see new places, you say to yourself ‘WOW!!!!’.  Eventually, when you see new places, you simply say ‘wow’.  You’ll know.”

When we first discussed cruising, we were talking about just a year.  During the planning, we soon learned from another wise cruiser that we’d be out sailing for two years.  Rose and I moved on to R&R Kedger full-time nearly three years ago.  We’ve seen some fabulous places and shared experiences with some amazing people.  But we’ve gotten to a ‘wow’ phase.

So, we’re starting to close this chapter of our lives and begin moving onto the next one.  What is that chapter?  There’s no saying yet, but we’ll let you know in a future blog.  If we learned nothing else as cruisers, we learned to change plans quickly.

Fair winds

Our last week in the Bahamas was spent at Wardle's Dock on New Providence. As you can see, it was very peaceful.

Our last week in the Bahamas was spent at Wardle’s Dock on New Providence. As you can see, it was very peaceful.

The Wardle's, long time live-aboards themselves, now offer their dock to cruisers at a very reasonable rate, especially for the Bahamas.

The Wardle’s, long time live-aboards themselves, now offer their dock to cruisers at a very reasonable rate, especially for the Bahamas.

And, as Ian and Jennifer demonstrate, the Wardle's upstairs deck is often open for BYOB at 'Rum O'Clock'.

And, as Ian and Jennifer demonstrate, the Wardle’s upstairs deck is often open for BYOB at ‘Rum O’Clock’.

The morning we left, it was exceptionally calm ... at the dock.

The morning we left, it was exceptionally calm … at the dock.

A wave good-bye to the Bahamas

A wave good-bye to the Bahamas

Friends sending us off.

Friends sending us off.

One last look at where we were docked.

One last look at where we were docked.

Final sunset at sea ... for now.

Final sunset at sea … for now.

Just before dawn, the channel marker indicating the entrance to Fort Lauderdale's "Port Everglade".

Just before dawn, the channel marker indicating the entrance to Fort Lauderdale’s “Port Everglade”.

Last sunrise at sea ... for now...

Last sunrise at sea … for now…

... and it was pretty colorful.

… and it was pretty colorful.

Yep. We're back in the States. And in Florida, home to many Mega-Yachts, and waiting for ...

Yep. We’re back in the States. And in Florida, home to many Mega-Yachts, and waiting for …

... Bridge openings!

… Bridge openings!

It's also home to other creatures that sometimes blend into the scenery.

It’s also home to other creatures that sometimes blend into the scenery.

Working fast, we acquired a new home ... at least for our stuff... again, for now. (Sorry for the blur. Like I said. We were moving fast!)

Working fast, we acquired a new home … at least for our stuff… again, for now. (Sorry for the blur. Like I said. We were moving fast!)

... and the move out begins.

… and the move out begins.

At least the locals are friendly.

At least the locals are friendly.

Rose is extremely happy to be back where it is relatively easy to get your fresh fruit serving. Or, as in this case, TWO fruit servings. Strawberries AND bananas! No wait! THREE! WOW! There's a cherry there also!

Rose is extremely happy to be back where it is relatively easy to get your fresh fruit serving. Or, as in this case, TWO fruit servings. Strawberries AND bananas! No wait! THREE! WOW! There’s a cherry there also!

And Rob's not complaining either, although his waistline might be soon. This is a 'Texan' burger including you're basic burger, BBQ sauce, onion ring, and fried egg. Ok, maybe healthy eating was easier on the boat. No options like these!

And Rob’s not complaining either, although his waistline might be soon. This is a ‘Texan’ burger including you’re basic burger, BBQ sauce, onion ring, and fried egg. Ok, maybe healthy eating was easier on the boat. No options like these!

It is now official. We may not have the boat ready, but it is for sale.

It is now official. We may not have the boat ready, but it is for sale.

And the guest cabin, cleaner than when we had guests!

And the guest cabin, cleaner than when we had guests!

And the 'garage' (every cruising boat has one), never so empty.

And the ‘garage’ (every cruising boat has one), never so empty.

The zinc looks in good enough shape. And wow, look at the prop. Still shining. But, notice the Florida river water color. We're DEFINITELY not in the Bahamas any more.

The zinc looks in good enough shape. And wow, look at the prop. Still shining. But, notice the Florida river water color. We’re DEFINITELY not in the Bahamas any more.

And Rose's attitude is hanging in there, even with all of this cleaning only to turn it over to someone else.

And Rose’s attitude is hanging in there, even with all of this cleaning only to turn it over to someone else.

Puppies. On a boat. Not one. But two!

Puppies. On a boat. Not one. But two!

Our current neighbors, Matt from Australia and Bonnie from Seattle are just about to begin their cruising adventures as soon as they get an engine in their boat ... hopefully today! ... with the two pups! Ok, so maybe this chapter never closes.

Our current neighbors, Matt from Australia and Bonnie from Seattle are just about to begin their cruising adventures as soon as they get an engine in their boat … hopefully today! … with the two pups! Ok, so maybe this chapter never closes.

Exumas – Part Two

Dateline: February 18, 2016 Coral Harbour, New Providence, Bahamas

This time of year, for every 5 out of 7 days, the wind should be blowing from the northeast, east, or southeast at an average somewhere around 20 knots.  That should make for some nice fair wind and following seas to push a sailboat northwest up through the Exumas towards New Providence and Nassau, especially if you’ve got a week or so and can pick your days.

However this year, as everyone keeps telling me, the weather has been anything but ‘usual.’  Fronts have been coming off the US east coast at an astonishing rate.  Southern Florida experienced tornadoes, water spouts, freezing temperatures, and frost … all just last week.  The Bahamas seems to get a taste of whatever comes.

It is very interesting to me how the northwest Bahamas will get weather completely different from the southeast Bahamas, … or not, depending on the perseverance of the latest front.  Often, the northwestern Bahama weather is coming off the coast of Florida while the southeastern Bahama weather is being pushed/pulled up from the south or eastern Caribbean.  But, if you’re lucky enough to be in the right place in the middle of the Bahamas, you might simply have good weather while everyone else is suffering, … or not.

Unlike San Diego’s fairly invariant weather, the Bahamas truly provides an “interesting” field of play for a meteorologist.  In this location, maybe we should start referring to what the weather people do as ‘practicing the weather’, like we say about doctors.  Rather than practicing medicine, the meteorologists are simply ‘practicing’ weather.   Nobody can get it right all of the time and there is always so much more to learn.  … but I digress.

We’ve been hanging out a little long in the Bahamas so that we could entertain a friend under ‘reasonably’ predictable conditions.  Let me simply say, as the pictures below will prove, that we are ‘practicing’ cruising.  Sometimes it just doesn’t seem like we can get it right and there is ALWAYS much more to learn.

Fair winds

R&R Kedger sits comfortably at anchor at Sand Dollar Beach in Elizabeth Harbour at Georgetown

R&R Kedger sits comfortably at anchor at Sand Dollar Beach in Elizabeth Harbour at Georgetown

Pretty girl on the beach. Need I say more?

Pretty girl on the beach. Need I say more?

Coast lines mix rugged with smooth beach

Coast lines mix rugged with smooth beach

Sometimes we end up walking with a group of friends.

Sometimes we end up walking with a group of friends.

Like a relatively quiet, friendly beach? Sand Dollar Beach provides the perfect retreat. These people are all good friends. Bob from s/v Eclipse is sitting on the table. Kent and Shelley are from s/v Alta Mae. Imagine that. An entire beach and everyone knows your name. It's like "Cheers!"

Like a relatively quiet, friendly beach? Sand Dollar Beach provides the perfect retreat. These people are all good friends. Bob from s/v Eclipse is sitting on the table. Kent and Shelley are from s/v Alta Mae. Imagine that. An entire beach and everyone knows your name. It’s like “Cheers!”

Need something more populated? Volleyball Beach, home of Chat-n-Chill, provides Cruisers in the Georgetown area with a casual area to gather, 'chat', and 'chill'. Note the boat in the background anchored about 40' off the beach.

Need something more populated? Volleyball Beach, home of Chat-n-Chill, provides Cruisers in the Georgetown area with a casual area to gather, ‘chat’, and ‘chill’. Note the boat in the background anchored about 40′ off the beach.

The entrance to Georgetown's Lake Victoria is a little tight.

The entrance to Georgetown’s Lake Victoria is a little tight.

Really. It's one dinghy wide.

Really. It’s one dinghy wide.

But, as you can see, a lot of dinghys can get through. FYI, that's a $23- watermelon he is loading into his boat.

But, as you can see, a lot of dinghys can get through. FYI, that’s a $23- watermelon he is loading into his boat.

Bob and Camie from s/v Eclipse. Always glad to see you.

Bob and Camie from s/v Eclipse. Always glad to see you.

... and the exit. Yield to anyone coming in from the rough water and aim carefully as you shoot through.

… and the exit. Yield to anyone coming in from the rough water and aim carefully as you shoot through.

Rob and Radd from s/v Sasha revitalize an abandoned dinghy. It was abandoned for good reasons, but Radd had lost his dinghy during the storm on January 6th. ANY dinghy is better than NO dinghy at all.

Rob and Radd from s/v Sasha revitalize an abandoned dinghy. It was abandoned for good reasons, but Radd had lost his dinghy during the storm on January 6th. ANY dinghy is better than NO dinghy at all.

It's a boat. This time that means it's a generator repair shop. Just like home. Engine parts on the kitchen counter.

It’s a boat. This time that means it’s a generator repair shop. Just like home. Engine parts on the kitchen counter.

Georgetown sunrise.

Georgetown sunrise.

Rose climbed the peak to the monument.

Rose climbed the peak to the monument.

... and the boats sit comfortably at rest this day in the colorful Monument bay anchorage.

… and the boats sit comfortably at rest this day in the colorful Monument bay anchorage.

It's tough to find exercise when you live on a boat. But, every once in a while, it presents itself.

It’s tough to find exercise when you live on a boat. But, every once in a while, it presents itself.

It happens mostly on the beach, but once in a while, you get to mix in a little jungle.

It happens mostly on the beach, but once in a while, you get to mix in a little jungle.

And sometimes it's water aerobics... more or less. (The cruisers actually do conduct water aerobics off of Monument Beach at 9am, if you're interested in going. I'd think about it if the water was up to 85 degrees.)

And sometimes it’s water aerobics… more or less. (The cruisers actually do conduct water aerobics off of Monument Beach at 9am, if you’re interested in going. I’d think about it if the water was up to 85 degrees.)

Stormy conditions have been constant.

Stormy conditions have been constant.

Yep. Storms. But with the clouds...

Yep. Storms. But with the clouds…

... come the sunsets.

… come the sunsets.

... and they keep coming.

… and they keep coming.

With the crazy storms, we were very glad when our good friends from Neko and Pegasus caught up with us in Georgetown. Oh, and Pete is ok. He's just out of the frame to the left. Sorry about that Pete! Maybe if you had a smaller boat...

With the crazy storms, we were very glad when our good friends from Neko and Pegasus caught up with us in Georgetown. Oh, and Pete is ok. He’s just out of the frame to the left. Sorry about that Pete! Maybe if you had a smaller boat…

Black Point seems so calm on this second visit. We were last here during the derecho storm of January 6th. We're here to meet our friend Janice who is flying in from San Diego.

Black Point seems so calm on this second visit. We were last here during the derecho storm of January 6th. We’re here to meet our friend Janice who is flying in from San Diego.

OK, this was new for Rose. This is the first island airport where she wasn't able to simply walk out onto the runway to meet the plane!

OK, this was new for Rose. This is the first island airport where she wasn’t able to simply walk out onto the runway to meet the plane!

The arrival...

The arrival…

... and mass transit system.

… and mass transit system.

Then, it's anchor up immediately upon return to R&R Kedger. "Thar's a blow a-coming and we don't want to be caught here."

Then, it’s anchor up immediately upon return to R&R Kedger. “Thar’s a blow a-coming and we don’t want to be caught here.”

We made it to Big Major and got on anchor before the front arrived. Let the vacation begin!

We made it to Big Major and got on anchor before the front arrived. Let the vacation begin!

So, plenty of time for a quick dip. It was too cold for Rob. The water was down to a ridiculously low 73 degrees. But given that the low 70s is about as warm as it ever gets in the Pacific Ocean off of San Diego, well, to some people, it's not THAT bad.

So, plenty of time for a quick dip. It was too cold for Rob. The water was down to a ridiculously low 73 degrees. But given that the low 70s is about as warm as it ever gets in the Pacific Ocean off of San Diego, well, to some people, it’s not THAT bad.

And the sunset that first night, it was quite acceptable. But then...

And the sunset that first night, it was quite acceptable. But then…

... well, the next 18 hours, on anchor, managing seasickness was the order of the day.

… well, the next 18 hours, on anchor, managing seasickness was the order of the day.

"Red sky at night, sailor's delight." Does a little red mean a little delight? Maybe tomorrow will be a little better?

“Red sky at night, sailor’s delight.” Does a little red mean a little delight? Maybe tomorrow will be a little better?

Yes, indeed. It was delightful for a while. Pigs!

Yes, indeed. It was delightful for a while. Pigs!

More pigs.

More pigs.

And piglets.

And piglets.

Attack formation.

Attack formation.

Swim!

Swim!

As Captains said far too often in the old days when the pirates appeared, "Prepare to repel boarders!"

As Captains said far too often in the old days when the pirates appeared, “Prepare to repel boarders!”

Underway to Cambridge Cay.

Underway to Cambridge Cay.

When Janice was flying in, she snapped this image. Little did she know that she would be moored here at Cambridge Cay later in the week.

When Janice was flying in, she snapped this image. Little did she know that she would be moored here at Cambridge Cay later in the week.

ECLAP was created to preserve a little piece of this paradise. Glad to see it.

ECLAP was created to preserve a little piece of this paradise. Glad to see it.

The girls give a wave to Bell Rock just northeast of Cambridge Cay.

The girls give a wave to Bell Rock just northeast of Cambridge Cay.

Bell Rock from a different point of view.

Bell Rock from a different point of view.

Gotta blow conch!

Gotta blow conch!

Ok, what's wrong with this picture? That's right. WAY too much clothing and headgear!

Ok, what’s wrong with this picture? That’s right. WAY too much clothing and headgear!

The cut into Warderick Wells was getting a little bouncy.

The cut into Warderick Wells was getting a little bouncy.

Bouncy, but still doable.

Bouncy, but still doable.

Warderick Wells arrival selfie for the girls.

Warderick Wells arrival selfie for the girls.

R&R Kedger peacefully on the mooring. There is no anchoring allowed at Warderick Wells.

R&R Kedger peacefully on the mooring. There is no anchoring allowed at Warderick Wells.

It's nice to be in a protected harbor...

It’s nice to be in a protected harbor…

... even if it does mean having to be careful to stay in the narrow dark water AND avoid the other boats moored there.

… even if it does mean having to be careful to stay in the narrow dark water AND avoid the other boats moored there.

Nathan, this one is for you. With your interest in unique and different instruments from all over the world, you would appreciate these rocks. Grab a stick. Give them a tap. They play surprisingly well, sounding a bit like a ceramic marimba.

Nathan, this one is for you. With your interest in unique and different instruments from all over the world, you would appreciate these rocks. Grab a stick. Give them a tap. They play surprisingly well, sounding a bit like a ceramic marimba.

A little fording on the way to Boo Boo Hill.

A little fording on the way to Boo Boo Hill.

Yep. Keep the boat between the two white lines.

Yep. Keep the boat between the two white lines.

The blow holes can be impressive when the waves on the Exuma Sound are big. But, with the wind coming from the west, they were pretty mild the day Janice got to visit.

The blow holes can be impressive when the waves on the Exuma Sound are big. But, with the wind coming from the west, they were pretty mild the day Janice got to visit.

I think I mentioned this before. This is the only 'Yep, you can leave something other than footprints' that can be found anywhere in the Park.

I think I mentioned this before. This is the only ‘Yep, you can leave something other than footprints’ that can be found anywhere in the Park.

... and we insisted that Janice leave a plaque to commemorate her visit here.

… and we insisted that Janice leave a plaque to commemorate her visit here.

Did I mention that it was nearly Valentine's Day?

Did I mention that it was nearly Valentine’s Day?

'Janice', next to 'R&R Kedger' for all eternity, ... or the next hurricane, ... which ever comes first.

‘Janice’, next to ‘R&R Kedger’ for all eternity, … or the next hurricane, … which ever comes first.

The trail to Boo Boo Beach

The trail to Boo Boo Beach

Cliffs above the Exuma Sound

Cliffs above the Exuma Sound

Ok. This could be your last chance to swim this week. Am I going in? No way.

Ok. This could be your last chance to swim this week. Am I going in? No way.

Some days are better than others. Especially in the very shallow water at Warderick Wells. This catamaran simply missed picking up the ball and failed to realize how fast the wind and current were moving. At least it's just sand. 5 hours later they floated off.

Some days are better than others. Especially in the very shallow water at Warderick Wells. This catamaran simply missed picking up the ball and failed to realize how fast the wind and current were moving. At least it’s just sand. 5 hours later they floated off.

Again, plenty of clouds for sunset.

Again, plenty of clouds for sunset.

Blow it away and bring us a good day for sailing tomorrow.

Blow it away and bring us a good day for sailing tomorrow.

Hey Solo, Janice says, "Thank you" for that snowboarding hat.

Hey Solo, Janice says, “Thank you” for that snowboarding hat.

Again. What's wrong with this picture? (Nope, it's not the texting. It's the same as Rose before. Too much clothing required to stay warm!)

Again. What’s wrong with this picture? (Nope, it’s not the texting. It’s the same as Rose before. Too much clothing required to stay warm!)

Sunrise. Time to get going.

Sunrise. Time to get going.

And today, we SAIL!

And today, we SAIL!

Finally, fair winds and following seas.

Finally, fair winds and following seas.

... for the entire day as we make our way northwest to New Providence, home to Nassau.

… for the entire day as we make our way northwest to New Providence, home to Nassau.

Arrival cocktails.

Arrival cocktails.

And the final sunset before Janice has to fly home. It's amazingly calm considering how bumpy it had been most of the week. It's a good way to end the trip.

And the final sunset before Janice has to fly home. It’s amazingly calm considering how bumpy it had been most of the week. It’s a good way to end the trip.

Exumas – Part One

Dateline: January 15, 2016.  Georgetown, Exumas, Bahamas

I was going to wait to blog about the Exumas until we left.  However, I’ve come to realize that we’re going to be hanging around here for a while and if I wait too long, it will become overwhelming for both of us as there is a lot to talk about in the Exumas.  We’re expecting guests during the next month or so and this seems like a pretty good place to entertain them while we entertain ourselves as well.  So, here we play for now.  To give you a flavor of what we’ve been up to so far, check out the photos below.

Fair winds

It's great to be back where the water is warm and 'taking a bath' is defined as jumping off the back of your boat.

It’s great to be back where the water is warm and ‘taking a bath’ is defined as jumping off the back of your boat.

Of course, with snorkeling again, Rose has taken up a new hobby of chasing sharks. I'm not sure I'm really comfortable with Rose's new hobby.

Of course, with snorkeling again, Rose has taken up a new hobby of chasing sharks. I’m not sure I’m really comfortable with Rose’s new hobby.

The natives are friendly, with a little persuasion.

The natives are friendly, with a little persuasion.

Ok, so maybe not all of the natives appear as friendly.

Ok, so maybe not all of the natives appear as friendly.

Allen Cay maintains a good population of iguanas.

Allen Cay maintains a good population of iguanas.

You're not supposed to feed them, but based on their behavior, they have either been trained otherwise OR they are providing strong security for whatever they are hiding on the island beyond the beach.

You’re not supposed to feed them, but based on their behavior, they have either been trained otherwise OR they are providing strong security for whatever they are hiding on the island beyond the beach.

It's good to be continuing with spectacular sunsets...

It’s good to be continuing with spectacular sunsets…

... not to mention the landscapes.

… not to mention the landscapes.

Rose is getting better and better at playing her conch shell.

Rose is getting better and better at playing her conch shell.

Ok, now I had to include this picture of Mary. She has MY conch shell. I have been trying to get a good noise out of it for over a year. Not possible. She picks it up and WOW! Good long blast. It's back to the practice room for me.

Ok, now I had to include this picture of Mary. She has MY conch shell. I have been trying to get a good noise out of it for over a year. Not possible. She picks it up and WOW! Good long blast. It’s back to the practice room for me.

We kissed the bottom. Fortunately it was soft sand and this was at the bottom of low tide while we were on anchor. Welcome to the Bahamas.

We kissed the bottom. Fortunately it was soft sand and this was at the bottom of low tide while we were on anchor. Welcome to the Bahamas.

We did swing around some while on anchor at Shroud Cay. Yes, that is our anchor chain going and coming ... and coming and going.

We did swing around some while on anchor at Shroud Cay. Yes, that is our anchor chain going and coming … and coming and going.

Rob's watching Rose take pictures of Rob while she swims out to check the anchor.

Rob’s watching Rose take pictures of Rob while she swims out to check the anchor.

The shore is beautiful soft sand in some places. And jagged sandstone in others. You can see the tidal range change by the color in the rocks behind our dinghy.

The shore is beautiful soft sand in some places. And jagged sandstone in others. You can see the tidal range change by the color in the rocks behind our dinghy.

Yep, this is the place where the pirates used to come to get fresh water trapped by the holes in the sandstone.

Yep, this is the place where the pirates used to come to get fresh water trapped by the holes in the sandstone.

Tradition among cruisers at remote cays ... Happy Hour on the beach. For what purpose? ...

Tradition among cruisers at remote cays … Happy Hour on the beach. For what purpose? …

... To watch the sunset, obviously.

… To watch the sunset, obviously.

Ah... a stroll. Dang paparazzi! They find you EVERYWHERE! ...

Ah… a stroll. Dang paparazzi! They find you EVERYWHERE! …

... even when you're just chillin'.

… even when you’re just chillin’.

Pete from s/v Neko launched his kite board from the beach. Beautiful day for kiting.

Pete from s/v Neko launched his kite board from the beach. Beautiful day for kiting.

That's Pete again, blasting by R&R Kedger and his boat Neko.

That’s Pete again, blasting by R&R Kedger and his boat Neko.

Warderick Wells is the headquarters and in the heart of the Exuma Land and Sea Park. The channel is natural, deep enough, but as you can see, narrow and has swift currents.

Warderick Wells is the headquarters and in the heart of the Exuma Land and Sea Park. The channel is natural, deep enough, but as you can see, narrow and has swift currents.

As Cherry, the manager, says, "Keep to the dark blue water." Here's R&R Kedger on her mooring. Shallow before (at times nearly dry) and shallow behind (again, at times completely dry)

As Cherry, the manager, says, “Keep to the dark blue water.” Here’s R&R Kedger on her mooring. Shallow before (at times nearly dry) and shallow behind (again, at times completely dry)

At Warderick Wells, the happy hour comes complete with picnic bench and shelter.

At Warderick Wells, the happy hour comes complete with picnic bench and shelter.

It was Christmas when we were at Warderick Wells. Finnola and Harry from s/v Escape Velocity understand how to set the mood on the 'White Christmas' Bahamian beach.

It was Christmas when we were at Warderick Wells. Finnola and Harry from s/v Escape Velocity understand how to set the mood on the ‘White Christmas’ Bahamian beach.

Food was plentiful at the party hosted by the park officials. That was extremely kind of them and above and beyond the call of duty.

Food was plentiful at the party hosted by the park officials. That was extremely kind of them and above and beyond the call of duty.

I'd guess between 40 and 50 people attended from the boats in the area along with the dozen or so park officials and members of the Royal Bahamas Defence Force stationed at the park headquarters.

I’d guess between 40 and 50 people attended from the boats in the area along with the dozen or so park officials and members of the Royal Bahamas Defence Force stationed at the park headquarters.

Pete and Mary enjoyed the festivities and music along with the rest of us.

Pete and Mary enjoyed the festivities and music along with the rest of us.

The view from the parks officials' residence is spectacular. Working here means you are away from family and friends, but at least you have the view.

The view from the parks officials’ residence is spectacular. Working here means you are away from family and friends, but at least you have the view.

... Truly spectacular.

… Truly spectacular.

Music seems to travel with cruisers, be they South African or Russian currently living in Canada but all in the Bahamas at this moment as is the case here. Great ballads from Mark, this talented guitarist.

Music seems to travel with cruisers, be they South African or Russian currently living in Canada but all in the Bahamas at this moment as is the case here. Great ballads from Mark, this talented guitarist.

Again, Rose with her sharks.

Again, Rose with her sharks.

She can't seem to get enough.

She can’t seem to get enough.

And teasing them with her toes. Now, this is just getting to be too much. Oh. It's ok. Those are Mary's toes tempting the sharks. Not Rose's. Crazy women!

And teasing them with her toes. Now, this is just getting to be too much. Oh. It’s ok. Those are Mary’s toes tempting the sharks. Not Rose’s. Crazy women!

Well, at least the sunset can change the subject.

Well, at least the sunset can change the subject.

Rob at Barefoot Beach. Hey, aren't all of the beaches barefoot beaches?

Rob at Barefoot Beach. Hey, aren’t all of the beaches barefoot beaches?

Rose catches Rob making a plaque for R&R Kedger to place at the cruiser's monument at Boo Boo Hill.

Rose catches Rob making a plaque for R&R Kedger to place at the cruiser’s monument at Boo Boo Hill.

Plaque placed.

Plaque placed.

Look to the left in this picture and you'll see there have been quiet a few plaques placed over the years.

Look to the left in this picture and you’ll see there have been quiet a few plaques placed over the years.

Security. (Note the guard standing watch on top of the sign post.)

Security. (Note the guard standing watch on top of the sign post.)

I hope by now you saw the earlier blog with the stingray and the pigs. Here's a few pictures from that time.

I hope by now you saw the earlier blog with the stingray and the pigs. Here’s a few pictures from that time.

Whatcha lookin' at? Did you bring me snacks?

Whatcha lookin’ at? Did you bring me snacks?

That's a camera, not snacks. Go away.

That’s a camera, not snacks. Go away.

Water water everywhere and not a drop to drink ... unless someone brings it or you happen to catch some rain. Apparently, this truly is a desert island.

Water water everywhere and not a drop to drink … unless someone brings it or you happen to catch some rain. Apparently, this truly is a desert island.

Water for the piglets also.

Water for the piglets also.

Lady, you can't fool me. That's a camera. I'm headed to that boat that just came in.

Lady, you can’t fool me. That’s a camera. I’m headed to that boat that just came in.

And if the pigs think you've got food, you'll find you are very popular. And they are VERY smart about quickly figuring out who has food and who does not! And they know that cameras are NOT food. Smart pigs.

And if the pigs think you’ve got food, you’ll find you are very popular. And they are VERY smart about quickly figuring out who has food and who does not! And they know that cameras are NOT food. Smart pigs.

Baby!

Baby!

Lots of them.

Lots of them.

And mama doesn't seem to mind if you play with them.

And mama doesn’t seem to mind if you play with them.

Another beach, another happy hour. Life has so many demands.

Another beach, another happy hour. Life has so many demands.

Ok, as hard as it may be to believe, Rose proclaims that this is her favorite place so far this year.

Ok, as hard as it may be to believe, Rose proclaims that this is her favorite place so far this year.

Yep, a REAL laundry mat with multiple washers and dryers. And they WORK. And it's CLEAN!

Yep, a REAL laundry mat with multiple washers and dryers. And they WORK. And it’s CLEAN!

Oh, and across the street, Ms. Rolle makes fresh home made bread upon request. Order now, pick up late this afternoon. It will still be warm from the oven.

Oh, and across the street, Ms. Rolle makes fresh home made bread upon request. Order now, pick up late this afternoon. It will still be warm from the oven.

Calm sunset, but shortly thereafter ...

Calm sunset, but shortly thereafter …

No, not the Derecho that you read about in our last blog. This is the minor 'normal' blow the night before. Yuck!

No, not the Derecho that you read about in our last blog. This is the minor ‘normal’ blow the night before. Yuck!

The Derecho. 78.1 knots too much.

The Derecho. 78.1 knots too much.

All right. Look close. I mean really. Drive between the only two boats anchored in the area. Really? Yes, that is R&R Kedger anchored on this side of the cargo boat. (And Alta Mae on the other.)

All right. Look close. I mean really. Drive between the only two boats anchored in the area. Really? Yes, that is R&R Kedger anchored on this side of the cargo boat. (And Alta Mae on the other.)

Farmer's Cay was a nice transition back to better cruising after the Derecho. Calm sailing day, early arrival.

Farmer’s Cay was a nice transition back to better cruising after the Derecho. Calm sailing day, early arrival.

Here's your sign.

Here’s your sign.

... and spectacular sunset, again!

… and spectacular sunset, again!

But leaving Farmer's Cay to enter the Exuma Sound, well, that's different. Actually, this is unusual in that in most photos things are significantly WORSE than they appear. In this case, this was not bad at all. We simply motored across.

But leaving Farmer’s Cay to enter the Exuma Sound, well, that’s different. Actually, this is unusual in that in most photos things are significantly WORSE than they appear. In this case, this was not bad at all. We simply motored across.

Well, we're finally in Georgetown, a mecca for Bahamian Cruisers. We will likely be here for a while. So, we'll stop the story for now and pick it up next month. Fair winds.

Well, we’re finally in Georgetown, a mecca for Bahamian Cruisers. We will likely be here for a while. So, we’ll stop the story for now and pick it up next month. Fair winds.

Revised Goal Required. Dang!

Dateline: January 13, 2016.  Georgetown, Exumas, Bahamas
Interesting Event: January 6, 2016.  Black Point Settlement, Exumas, Bahamas

It took me a week to be willing to write this, but it’s time to give it a place in history and sail on.

A New Goal

We owe a lot to people who create musicals.  Well, at least I owe something to lyricist/director Martin Charnin, playwright Thomas Meehan and composer Charles Strouse who created the musical ‘Annie’.  They created that tune that begins with, “The sun will come out tomorrow”.  It’s a good song to chant during the night.  I know only the first three lines, but I said them to myself dozens of times the night of January 6th.

The weather report on January 7th begins “Parts of Bahamas experienced an interesting weather event yesterday.”  All sailors know that when a meteorologist says “interesting”, it’s time to seek safe harbor and batten down the hatches.  However, when they say it the day after, … well, … you know it’s already too late for preventative action.

I have spent a lot of planning-effort over the years to ensure that we could return from this cruising adventure with no interesting stories to tell about surviving storms.  I now have to change that goal to “No interesting stories about surviving storms while at sea.”

The Forecast

Forecast: Wind at 6 knots out of the West. Ahhhh... if only.

Forecast: Wind at 6 knots out of the West. Ahhhh… if only.

All of the meteorologists got this one wrong.  Check out this grib provided by the United States GFS model.  At 6PM on January 6th, it shows winds of 6.6 knots from the west at our location … truly a gentle breeze.  It was wrong.  We’re accustom to doubling forecasted wind speeds when we do our planning.  But that also wasn’t even close.

The event was not expected even as it was about to strike.  Chris Parker, the notable and well respected marine weatherman, during his 5 PM forecast an hour before the ‘interesting event’, reportedly told people in the area, “Winds will be in the 20s with possible gusts to 40 around some of the stronger squalls.”  That’s higher than the typical, normal forecast.  But it is nothing like the 70+ knot winds created along this 200+ mile trough.

The Interesting Event

On his morning Ham/SSB broadcast, Mr. Parker the following day called it a Black Swan event.  For those who may not know, “The term Black Swan originates from the (Western) belief that all swans are white because these were the only ones accounted for. However, in 1697 the Dutch explorer Willem de Vlamingh discovered black swans in Australia. This was an unexpected event in (scientific) history and profoundly changed zoology.”[1]

I’m certain that Rose will tell you about the dinghy ride from shore back to the boat as the storm began.  Briefly, it was a full-on salt water shower that filled the bottom half of the dinghy and soaked our provisions.  Next came boarding the boat.  Then attaching and hauling up the dinghy on the davits we installed last summer.  If I’d thought it through, I probably should have just gotten on the boat and forgotten about the dinghy at that moment.  Given the unfortunate events that happened to many of our friends, I’m glad we got it up.

This is the screen I monitored during the storm. Our boat track is on the left. Those arcs have foci of our anchor location. The wind speed and direction is on the right. Max caught as a picture: 78.1 knots. That's way too much wind.

This is the screen I monitored during the storm. Our boat track is on the left. Those arcs have foci of our anchor location. The wind speed and direction is on the right. Max caught as a picture: 78.1 knots. That’s way too much wind.

The wind speed continued to climb.  The rain came.  The foul weather gear came out.  And I got to have my first experience with pending seasickness while at anchor.  We recorded a top wind speed of 78.1 knots.  That’s hurricane speed but this wasn’t a cyclonic hurricane.

The boat swept back and forth as shown by the black arc blob of our boat track on the chart.  Like Hansel and Gretel’s breadcrumbs, this track is a recording of our boat location every 30 seconds.  I’d started tracking the night before when we’d had an ‘un-interesting’ event that brought wind speeds into the 50 knot range.  The very good news is that the track swept back and forth during all of these events and the boat did not drag.

The other good news is that there were four other sailboats in the anchorage with us and no one was lined up to drag into anyone.  So, rather than having to be at the helm to steer the boat around potential dragging boats, I was able to lay on the floor and monitor our boats position electronically and listen for the anchor watch alarm which fortunately never sounded.

Rose caught Rob 'resting' on the floor, arms pushing from each side to keep his body from rolling. Rob's brain is singing songs from Annie while repeating over and over his step-by-step plan of action should the boat begin to drag.

Rose caught Rob ‘resting’ on the floor, arms pushing from each side to keep his body from rolling. Rob’s brain is singing songs from Annie while repeating over and over his step-by-step plan of action should the boat begin to drag.

Without the electronics, it would have been very difficult to monitor our position.  It was dark.  The rain made it difficult to see any distance.  And even if you could see, the lights were knocked out on shore for most of the storm.  Sometimes we could see anchor lights of two of the other boats and sometimes we could see car lights from shore.  But, since all of those things can move, they’re not good reference points.

Damages

I don’t believe anyone knows the total damage, but there are reports of several boats driven onto rocky shores and serious damage from boats dragging into each other.  One boat was ‘harpooned’ by the bow sprint and pulpit of another in Georgetown.  They required a saw to cut the metal pulpit to separate them the next day.  Another boat started to drag, caught another boat’s chain with its anchor. By the time the first boat finished dragging they had collected five boats together in total.  About a dozen dinghies that we know of were lost or flipped.  And we only have heard reports from a small fraction of the storm zone.  Unbelievably, we’ve heard of no loss of life or serious injury.

Here’s a few examples of damages from friends close to us.

Neko

Our good friends, Pete and Mary on s/v Neko have quite a tale to tell.  Read their story here.  In summary, Pete was driving his boat while on anchor to avoid other boats that were dragging by.  Their dinghy flipped, submerging the engine in salt water.  But that’s not all.  In the middle of all of the chaos, a line from the dinghy wrapped around the starboard prop of their catamaran, stopping the engine.  Pete jumped into the water to free it.  He was successful and able to return to his position at the helm.  I feel very fortunate that our story is much less interesting.  They’ve been working diligently to get the outboard engine running again, but so far, it appears to be terminal.

Sasha and Odin

Where we were anchored at Black Point Settlement, four fellow cruisers from two sailboats, s/v Sasha and s/v Odin, were just minutes behind us in leaving the restaurant to return to their boats.  They were unable to do so until two and a half hours later after the main portion of the storm had passed.  They had planned on returning to their boats before dark and had not turned on any lights.  As darkness fell, they were able to sit safely on shore, but they were looking out at a very dark bay wondering if they would have anything left to which they could return.  I’m sure it felt worse when the power on shore got knocked out and they were completely surrounded by darkness.

As they waited it out, their dinghies were tied at the dock.  Unfortunately, the waves and surge from the storm was so large that it pushed their dinghies up to and under the dock.  That destroyed one of the boats of one of the dinghies and the engine on the other.  After the storm, they put the working motor on the working dinghy to get back to where they had left their boats.  Fortunately, the big boats were still there.

Wayward Sun

Amazingly, they had no damage.  But read their story about dragging here:  http://www.sailblogs.com/member/wayward_sun.  See their article, “The Perfect Storm – Bahamas Style”.  It’s amazing.

R&R Kedger

We were very lucky.  We received only insignificant damage.

Our bridle uses two anchor lines.  One of them broke and shred.  Fortunately, the other held.  How?  I have no idea.  But it did.  We had out 260’ of chain.  It was pulled completely straight all the way back to the anchor.  For reference, holding here in the Bahamas is good.  People rarely put out more than 100’.  In fact, a few weeks back, I had a Charter Captain laughing at me for my ‘excessive’ use of chain.  He said that 50’ was plenty and even 100’ was excessive.  He may be laughing, but today I’m smiling.

When we decided to head south and pulled up the chain 36 hours after the storm, the last 80 feet was buried under the sand and the anchor was also nowhere to be seen having burrowed itself down.  That’s a good thing.  With patience, we were able to pull it up.

We tore a UV cover that provides shade in our cockpit.  Nothing that a little time with a sewing machine in a calm anchorage could not repair.

As the boat rolled from side to side, water came up through the open thru-hulls of the bathroom sinks and spilled onto the floor.  But again, no damage.

Oh, and naturally, we ‘rearranged’ the items in the interior of our boat.  But nothing broke inside.

We were extremely fortunate.  Much more fortunate than many of our friends.  There are many, many stories like those above repeated over and over along this section of the Bahamas.  When you meet new cruisers this week, it’s like the John F. Kennedy assassination.  “Where were you when…?”

Local Support

During the storm, the people at Black Point Settlement came to the shoreline with their cars and swept the anchorage with their headlights trying to provide some light to see what was going on.  They also called on the VHF radio asking if anyone needed help.  We know it was unsettling to them that no one answered their hail.  But everyone on their boat was very busy doing everything they could to ensure that they didn’t need any help.

Local Boats

All of sailboats held fast in our anchorage at Black Point.  But several of the locals’ boats ended up on shore and one flipped and sank.  Being smaller boats and in very shallow water, there were no significant damage except possibly to the motor of the boat that flipped.  We saw several people out with flashlights in the middle of the storm.  They were moving boats to which they could get to whatever protection they could find.  We learned later that several of those boats were owned by absent owners but the locals risked their lives to preserve that property.  I’m not certain I would be so brave.  Actually, now that I reflect on it, having ridden out the storm on a ‘big’ 46 foot boat, I’m pretty positive I would not.

Bottom Line

Underway two days later. How could this possibly be the same place? Swells: one to two ... inches?

Underway two days later. How could this possibly be the same place? Swells: one to two … inches?

We were lucky.  Some of that ‘luck’ we had ‘made’ through prior preparation.  But we were not prepared for this interesting event.  No one was.  It was a Black Swan.  The good news for us, Annie was right.  The sun did come out the next day.

 

Bonus: Chris Parker’s ‘Day After’ Discussion:

This came out the next morning.  I thought you might find it interesting due to the unusual nature of this weather event.  The places he mentions, Staniel Cay, Cambridge Cay, Great Exumas, etc., are all places we have recently visited or passed in the last few weeks.  We were at Black Point Settlement, about 7 miles south of Staniel Cay when the storm hit.  Here’s the discussion:

SYNOPSIS:
Parts of Bahamas experienced an interesting weather event yesterday.

StanielCay reported (confirmed independently from multiple sources) W-NW@45-50 with gusts at least into the 60s from about 6pm-7:30pm EST.

CambridgeCay (about 20mi N of StanielCay) recorded a gust which registered 106.2k on an anemometer. Even if not precisely correct, there were almost certainly Hurricane Force wind gusts.

Most reports were a bit less…mostly W-NW winds in 30-40k range, gusting 50k+ persisting about an hour+/- generally between the hours of 5pm-8pm in RoyalIsland & RockSound Eluthera, various locations near GreatExuma/LittleExuma.

Vessel overnight near 24N/73W reported an hour of S-W@35.

Our forecasts the past couple days were for squalls to 40-50k generally predicted for Wed6 afternoon-evening in C Bahamas. In the 1pm Wed6 forecast I refined that to say squall risk would end in most of C Bahamas Wed6 evening, and that areas which had been seeing mild wind S of TROF Wed6 still had chance of squalls until FRONT passed and we saw steadier WNW wind establish N of TROF in the evening.

While our forecasts missed the intensity of squalls (some of which were 50-70k, possibly a bit higher especially in gusts…versus the 40-50k we predicted for this event over the previous several days)…did capture the timing, with activity not ending in C Bahamas until sometime in the evening / I think activity weakened some as it swept thru SE Bahamas later in the evening and overnight.

In 13 years, I don’t think I’ve seen an event like this in the Bahamas. Although there was some fairly strong convection (Lifted Index -4 to -6, and CAPE 1000 to just under 2000), there were no very tall (cold) cloud tops. Infrared Satellite cloud top temps were only about -20C TO -30C, suggesting cloud tops probably in the range of 20,000′ to 25,000′ or maybe a bit higher. In order to generate observed winds, I would expect cloud top temps below -50C, and cloud tops well above 40,000′.

UofWisc analysis shows a large pool of cold air aloft near & W of the squall event.

Yesterday we discussed the 10am Wed6 ASCAT: TROF lies from 20mi S of Nassau-N BightAndros-N side of CaySalBk-Veradero, with SW-WSW@20-45 (sustained) within 120mi SE of TROF / NE-ENE@25-45 (sustained) within 120mi NW of TROF. Lightning strike data shows a band of intense lightning was along TROF.

So here’s my ANALYSIS: I believe the same TROF/convergence persisted from before 10am Wed6 morning until well after 10pm Wed6 evening, (at 10pm Wed6 it was along 25N/73W-Acklins-21N/75W, with one of the most intense bands of lightning strikes I’ve seen)…and it is this line that swept thru much of C Bahamas just before Sunset Wed6.

If we pick a point along TROF W of Andros (24N/80W) at 10am…and follow TROF E thru Bahamas (to 24N/73W) at 10pm, it covered about 400 miles in 12 hours, moving about 35k. As TROF began rotating around the LO which was developing just NE of Eluthera, the S portion of TROF/convergence moved more rapidly than the N part (closer to the developing LO)…and TROF/convergence gradually became more NNE-to-SSW-oriented. But throughout the day our TROF/convergence spanned about 300-400 miles from NE-to-SW (or NNE-to-SSW).

One unusual wind event which can persist for a long interval of time and move across many hundreds of miles, and lies along an axis hundreds of miles long is a Derecho.

Here’s a pretty good discussion of Derecho:

http://www.spc.noaa.gov/misc/AbtDerechos/derechofacts.htm

A Derecho is essentially “a self-sustaining linearly-organized storm”. A Derecho often starts as a series of outflow boundaries/gust fronts extending from squalls/T-strms, advancing ahead of a pool of cold air aloft. Over time, these outflow boundaries/gust fronts can merge into a long line, and be self-sustaining.

To meet the definition of a Derecho, the wind event must extend more than 240mi (from end-to-end), include wind gusts of at least 50k, and have several, well-separated 65k gusts. Winds are “straight line” in nature (rather than circular like in a tornado or hurricane), and typically blow perpendicular to the motion of the Derecho. Winds are supported not by the collapse of towering cumulonimbus clouds (as re typical squalls/T-strms), but rather by the inflow of warm air from ahead of the Derecho inward & upward into the pool of cold air aloft behind the Derecho…and fast-moving down-rushing air from the cold pool sustains the progressive gust front with the Derecho.

Derechos are thought to occur less often in moist environments, where inhibiting factors include abundant low-level clouds and less-cool air aloft. Derechos typically form on the equatorial side of the JetStream, with strong wind-shear. The leading edge of a Derecho is often marked by some sort of a shelf cloud.

Our event seems to meet all these criteria…we saw an event:
–over 300mi from end-to-end, and persisted along a path over 400 miles
–widespread wind gusts 50k+ along most of the line, with well-separated areas of 65k+
–straight-line winds, with reports of mostly uniform W-NW wind direction (perpendicular to the squall line)
–pool of cold air aloft located behind the squall line
–relatively-dry (cloud-free) conditions ahead of the squall line (at least in some areas)
–some sort of a shelf cloud was clearly visible in many of the photos I saw taken in Georgetown just before the event
–this occurred along the SE side of sub-Tropical JetStream, in an environment of strong wind shear

I can’t be sure what we saw was a Derecho, but it was certainly (thankfully) a rare event.
[1] http://blackswanevents.org/?page_id=26

Eleuthera – Freedom!

Eleuthera means Freedom

Dateline: December 15, 2015, Rock Sound Harbour, Eleuthera, Bahamas

Eleuthera – E-leu-the-ra.  I love the sound of that.  It comes from the Greek word for freedom.  For us, it meant freedom from lots of other boaters and tourists.  Apparently we benefited from being both early in the season and from weather trapping a lot of boaters in Florida while they waited for acceptable weather to cross the Gulf Stream to get to the Bahamas.  Regardless, we had a lot of the place to ourselves, but not completely.

The photos below tell the story.  If nothing else, be sure to click on the first one or two to view them at full size.

Fair winds

If you expand and look at only one photo this blog, this is the one to choose.

If you expand and look at only one photo this blog, this is the one to choose.

Or, maybe it's this one.

Or, maybe it’s this one.

Well, I don't know. Maybe this one. You choose.

Well, I don’t know. Maybe this one. You choose.

The water is wonderfully clear here. That dark blob in front of Pete and Mary's kayak is a ray.

The water is wonderfully clear here. That dark blob in front of Pete and Mary’s kayak is a ray.

He is 15' down as he passes under our boat.

He is 15′ down as he passes under our boat.

It's a bit of a narrow passage as you make your way into Hatchet Bay. No mistakes are allowed. One boat at a time please.

It’s a bit of a narrow passage as you make your way into Hatchet Bay. No mistakes are allowed. One boat at a time please.

Hatchet Bay didn't have a lot going for it. BUT, the one thing it did was that it was well protected and calm ... thanks to that narrow opening at the entrance.

Hatchet Bay didn’t have a lot going for it. BUT, the one thing it did was that it was well protected and calm … thanks to that narrow opening at the entrance.

Welcome to the Glass WIndow Bridge

Welcome to the Glass WIndow Bridge

The Atlantic side of the Glass WIndow Bridge is rough.

The Atlantic side of the Glass WIndow Bridge is rough.

Very Rough

Very Rough

But the 'Sound' side is calm ... all in a distance the width of a one lane bridge.

But the ‘Sound’ side is calm … all in a distance the width of a one lane bridge.

And a short walk from the bridge is this interesting hole. Not a geiser. It's a blow hole with salt water from the sea some distance below.

And a short walk from the bridge is this interesting hole. Not a geiser. It’s a blow hole with salt water from the sea some distance below.

We've seen several resorts this trip. But very, very few guests. The chairs are waiting. But then there is that yucky sand-between-your-toes thing to consider.

We’ve seen several resorts this trip. But very, very few guests. The chairs are waiting. But then there is that yucky sand-between-your-toes thing to consider.

Now, if you don't want to get sand on your feet, options do exist.

Now, if you don’t want to get sand on your feet, options do exist.

Well, if no one else is going to take advantage of the facilities, we will.

Well, if no one else is going to take advantage of the facilities, we will.

Pizza night at the Rainbow Inn is NOT to be missed when you're at Hatchet Bay. It's only one night a week and they spend the entire day preparing.

Pizza night at the Rainbow Inn is NOT to be missed when you’re at Hatchet Bay. It’s only one night a week and they spend the entire day preparing.

We saw this oven started at some time before noon. Pizzas don't start cooking until 6 pm. But when they do...

We saw this oven started at some time before noon. Pizzas don’t start cooking until 6 pm. But when they do…

The pizzas? 60 seconds and DONE perfectly.

The pizzas? 60 seconds and DONE perfectly.

Some days we had to sail with grey weather...

Some days we had to sail with grey weather…

... and rain gear.

… and rain gear.

... But at least we were sailing and not motoring into the wind.

… But at least we were sailing and not motoring into the wind.

I love calm. And even though completely open to the west, Governors Harbour was all right.

I love calm. And even though completely open to the west, Governors Harbour was all right.

At first glance, this is a pile of stuff in the road. On further investigation you'll discover that this is an official roadway hazard sign. There's a sink hole under it getting ready to swallow your car. Approach with caution.

At first glance, this is a pile of stuff in the road. On further investigation you’ll discover that this is an official roadway hazard sign. There’s a sink hole under it getting ready to swallow your car. Approach with caution.

Why the pink pig? One wonders. Guard pig? Navigation aid? Here's your sign, maybe?

Why the pink pig? One wonders. Guard pig? Navigation aid? Here’s your sign, maybe?

We like hot sauces. But I'll admit we were reluctant to try the one in the center... or even the two to the left.

We like hot sauces. But I’ll admit we were reluctant to try the one in the center… or even the two to the left.

Rose takes a closer inspection of our first-ever pink beach on the Atlantic side of Eleuthera.

Rose takes a closer inspection of our first-ever pink beach on the Atlantic side of Eleuthera.

You can see the flecks of red coral that combine with the white sand to make these 'pink' beaches.

You can see the flecks of red coral that combine with the white sand to make these ‘pink’ beaches.

Pink beach explorers.

Pink beach explorers.

The French Leave resort had this interesting driftwood and rock entrance near their marina. Nope, we didn't stay here. Just visited here for lunch.

The French Leave resort had this interesting driftwood and rock entrance near their marina. Nope, we didn’t stay here. Just visited here for lunch.

But lunch, ahhh, lunch is excellent.

But lunch, ahhh, lunch is excellent.

And dessert! Ok, so not the most attractive presentation. In fact, it looks a bit like bread covered with sand from the pink beach. But this Guava Doff, unique to the Bahamas, is DELICIOUS!

And dessert! Ok, so not the most attractive presentation. In fact, it looks a bit like bread covered with sand from the pink beach. But this Guava Doff, unique to the Bahamas, is DELICIOUS!

... and, of course whenever possible, Rose and her Creme-Bruele.

… and, of course whenever possible, Rose and her Creme-Bruele.

After lunch ... chillin'.

After lunch … chillin’.

This 'pond', found at Rock Sound over a quarter of a mile inland, is actually a hole over 600 feet deep connected to the ocean by numerous vents.

This ‘pond’, found at Rock Sound over a quarter of a mile inland, is actually a hole over 600 feet deep connected to the ocean by numerous vents.

And what is the cryptic name of this place? Yep, here's your sign.

And what is the cryptic name of this place? Yep, here’s your sign.

What does one find when peering into an 'ocean hole'?

What does one find when peering into an ‘ocean hole’?

Sea fish. Lots of them. But I think someone must be feeding them as they tended to congregate near this observation and swimming area.

Sea fish. Lots of them. But I think someone must be feeding them as they tended to congregate near this observation and swimming area.

Angel fish, Sargent Majors, and plenty of others seem to get along well.

Angel fish, Sargent Majors, and plenty of others seem to get along well.

Government Administration Offices in the Bahamas have, so far, been pretty easy to spot. At each town we've visited, the color scheme has been consistent.

Government Administration Offices in the Bahamas have, so far, been pretty easy to spot. At each town we’ve visited, the color scheme has been consistent.

At the Wild Orchid at Rock Sound Harbour, a colorful conch is about to become cevichi.

At the Wild Orchid at Rock Sound Harbour, a colorful conch is about to become cevichi.

All of your ingredients... and tools, including a rock hammer.

All of your ingredients… and tools, including a rock hammer.

The master at work. And his number one student, Pete, watching on. This demo was for a Princess Cruise Line tour, but we cruisers joined in.

The master at work. And his number one student, Pete, watching on. This demo was for a Princess Cruise Line tour, but we cruisers joined in.

... and danced (if you can loosely call it that) ...

… and danced (if you can loosely call it that) …

... to the music of the junkanoo band (also provided for the big boat cruisers). After that embarrassing dancing act, it's time to get out of Eleuthera.

… to the music of the junkanoo band (also provided for the big boat cruisers). After that embarrassing dancing act, it’s time to get out of Eleuthera.

Full Disclosure – Some days in Paradise

Most days, pure bliss. But not all.

Most days, pure bliss. But not all.

Dateline: January 2, 2016, Black Point Settlement, Exumas, Bahamas

If you’ve been following our blog, then you know we’ve got it pretty nice.  Interesting destinations.  Interesting journeys to get there.  Great food and drink.  And wonderful, interesting people.  It all seems pretty good.  But in the interest of full disclosure, Rose thought you should know that not every day in paradise is perfect.  In fact, some days can be downright shitty.

A while back, we had one of those days.

We have a new tank fluid level indicator on board.  I installed it last summer.  It shows the level of fluids in our water, fuel, and holding (aka shit) tanks.  We are not able to easily see the fluid levels in any of the tanks directly at the tanks.  Nor do we have access points where we could poke in a stick to measure the levels.  So, having the new indicator should be a big help.  However, it does have to be calibrated by telling it a) when a tank is empty, and b) when a tank is full.

Unfortunately, the holding tanks, while calibrated for ‘empty’, had not yet been calibrated for ‘full’.  During the night, due to the unusual substance appearing in the normally empty space at the bottom of the bowl of our forward toilet, Rose knew that forward head’s holding tank must be completely full … even if the indicator was only reading 20% full.

Meanwhile, back at the other end of the boat, we’d been developing a leak in the hand pump of our aft head.  (Side note: It’s REALLY nice to have two heads on board.  I’m certain you can imagine why.)  I knew the time had come to replace the leaky seal.

So, the morning started with rebuilding the aft head.  Not a big deal.  We’ve done it a couple of times over the years.  But it’s still a shitty job.

After that, it was time to pull anchor and head to sea to empty the holding tanks.  At that time, we had yet to hear of any pump-out facilities here in the Bahamas.  I was sure there must be some.  We just hadn’t seen them.  We believe that here, as in the US, when no pump-out stations are available, the rule is to head three miles or more out to sea.  It is commonly called, “A three mile cruise”, I’m certain out of some honorable reference to Gilligan’s Island.  We don’t know if the Bahamas has the same rule as the water gets VERY deep VERY fast after you get off of the ‘banks’.   But it seems like a good practice.  So, we put to sea.

It was a good day to go to sea.  To get to the Atlantic Ocean from the protected waters of the Sea of Abaco, you must travel through one of the many ‘cuts’.  Cuts are the relatively narrow channels between islands or reefs.

The day we headed out, the conditions in the cut north of Man O War Cay which led from the Sea of Abaco to the Atlantic Ocean were fairly calm.  These cuts can have a thing called ‘rage’.  The word is very descriptive.  That was not the case this day.  And the Atlantic was also accommodating.  It felt much like being off of San Diego, only 20 degrees warmer in both the water and the air, which was just fine by me.

After crossing through the cut and entering the Atlantic, we unfurled the sails and cut the engine.  We quickly went from depths being measured in feet, to hundreds of feet, to thousands of feet.  Still we sailed on.

When we reached our intended destination, we began emptying the holding tanks.  The process is simple enough.  Open the seacock (aka thru-hull) valve for the tank and push the button that activates the macerating pump that chops up anything passing through it much like a garbage disposal in your kitchen sink does to those vegetable peelings.

A few minutes later, the tanks are empty and we’re ready for another week or two before we’ll need to repeat the process.  Again, not too hard.  But, still, a shitty job.

The really good news that day was that the macerator (aka pump-out pump) worked flawlessly.  We have had days in the past where we’ve had to replace the pump.  That’s makes for a REALLY shitty day.

Given that we mostly live sunrise to sunset with maybe a little evening activity thrown in now and then, those two tasks consumed the entire day.

I guess I shouldn’t overlook the fact that we did get in a nice sail and Rose got to practice some of her sailing skills that she is developing.  And, the weather was perfect, the water was warm and clear, and I didn’t answer a single email or phone call and I didn’t have to attend a single meeting.

Ok, so life is still pretty good even on the shitty days.

Fair winds

Yep. This was a blissful day.

Yep. This was a blissful day.

 

Sea Life in the Exumas

Dateline: December 29, 2015, Big Major Spot, Staniel Cay, Exuma, Bahama

Happy New Year!  We’ve having a wonderful time hanging out here waiting for the next year to kick in.  Below is a quick video of a bit of what we’re doing to pass the time away.

Fair winds

Adios Abacos

Dateline: December 2, 2015, Lynyard Cay, Abaco, Bahamas

Time for the next ‘big’ jump.  This time it’s a 60 nautical mile trip from Little Harbour in the Abacos to Royal Island Harbour by Eleuthera.  Yep, still in the Bahamas, but now we’ll be in the ‘Central’ Bahamas rather than the ‘Northern’ Bahamas.  Yes, I know.  It really only matters when you listen to the weather report in the morning.  But hey, we’re saying ‘so long’ to the Abacos.  They’ve been fun, as you can see below, but it’s time to go … for now.

Fair winds!

I believe I mentioned that it got a bit windy as a big cold front moved off the US and through the Bahamas. It led to us hanging around Hope Town longer than we normally might. (TWS=True Wind Speed, AWS=Apparent Wind Speed). Even the water got cold!

I believe I mentioned that it got a bit windy as a big cold front moved off the US and through the Bahamas. It led to us hanging around Hope Town longer than we normally might. (TWS=True Wind Speed, AWS=Apparent Wind Speed). Even the water got cold!

You'll likely also recall that I mentioned Hope Town is home to the Elbow Reef Lighthouse, "The most photographed lighthouse in the Bahamas, and possibly the world."

You’ll likely also recall that I mentioned Hope Town is home to the Elbow Reef Lighthouse, “The most photographed lighthouse in the Bahamas, and possibly the world.”

A few facts about the lighthouse for those who are interested. It still operates using kerosene oil. Tradition.

A few facts about the lighthouse for those who are interested. It still operates using kerosene oil. Tradition.

The outside might be red and white, but the inside is the very common Bahama pink.

The outside might be red and white, but the inside is the very common Bahama pink.

Pink not your color? Well then, there is the green section near the top.

Pink not your color? Well then, there is the green section near the top.

I LOVE being in a place with few rules. They ask you not to touch the mechanism but they DO let you get up close and personal with everything. No OSHA here! And for us Mechanical Engineers, it's a bit of heaven.

I LOVE being in a place with few rules. They ask you not to touch the mechanism but they DO let you get up close and personal with everything. No OSHA here! And for us Mechanical Engineers, it’s a bit of heaven.

And, although the door to the outside had shades of Alice in Wonderland, it was open and we could pass through.

And, although the door to the outside had shades of Alice in Wonderland, it was open and we could pass through.

I believe I did mention it was windy. Rose is pointing out our boat in the Hope Town Harbour. (Ok, so she needed to point a couple of boats higher. But hey, it was windy and she really should have been holding on to the railing!)

I believe I did mention it was windy. Rose is pointing out our boat in the Hope Town Harbour. (Ok, so she needed to point a couple of boats higher. But hey, it was windy and she really should have been holding on to the railing!)

The view from the outside, spectacular. Did I mention that access to the lighthouse is all free of charge.

The view from the outside, spectacular. Did I mention that access to the lighthouse is all free of charge.

We did our part to ensure the lighthouse remained the most photographed lighthouse. It creeps into sunsets...

We did our part to ensure the lighthouse remained the most photographed lighthouse. It creeps into sunsets…

... and morning coffee. And I have several dozen other pictures, but you get the idea.

… and morning coffee. And I have several dozen other pictures, but you get the idea.

We did get onto the Cay for a little touring. The combination of the full moon and strong winds resulted in some exceptional high tides. Yep, that chain fence is suppose to help keep you from falling into the water.

We did get onto the Cay for a little touring. The combination of the full moon and strong winds resulted in some exceptional high tides. Yep, that chain fence is suppose to help keep you from falling into the water.

You come across some interesting things while touring. Based on this pile of shells in the backyard, someone apparently really likes their conch.

You come across some interesting things while touring. Based on this pile of shells in the backyard, someone apparently really likes their conch.

And, after a conch or two, you need a good place to sit back to watch the sunset. Where's the Corona?

And, after a conch or two, you need a good place to sit back to watch the sunset. Where’s the Corona?

One of my favorite discoveries are things I'd classify as "Here's your sign." Expand this picture and you'll likely understand my position.

One of my favorite discoveries are things I’d classify as “Here’s your sign.” Expand this picture and you’ll likely understand my position.

Or this one. I'm mean really. It's a wood dock. Then again, old wood ships had wood burning stoves ... but they were stoves. Not open fires. Well, just in case, here's your sign.

Or this one. I’m mean really. It’s a wood dock. Then again, old wood ships had wood burning stoves … but they were stoves. Not open fires. Well, just in case, here’s your sign.

Now this, this is a different sort of sign.

Now this, this is a different sort of sign.

It points out the dirt road that leads to this fine eating establishment.

It points out the dirt road that leads to this fine eating establishment.

The best people come here.  The menu is to Rose's left,. Simply saying "All good things BBQ" would just about cover it.

The best people come here. The menu is to Rose’s left,. Simply saying “All good things BBQ” would just about cover it.

Real ribs, mac'n'cheese (really GOOD mac'n'cheese. They do that well all over the Abacos), coleslaw, and one very happy Rose.

Real ribs, mac’n’cheese (really GOOD mac’n’cheese. They do that well all over the Abacos), coleslaw, and one very happy Rose.

Moving on with our island tour, Pete and Mary rented a golf cart, the primary mode of transportation on many of these 'outer' islands.

Moving on with our island tour, Pete and Mary rented a golf cart, the primary mode of transportation on many of these ‘outer’ islands.

We found a beach or two.

We found a beach or two.

And did I mention that the wind was from a cold front. Just look at how Rose is dressed! Except for those palm trees, this could be Massachusetts!

And did I mention that the wind was from a cold front. Just look at how Rose is dressed! Except for those palm trees, this could be Massachusetts!

Ok, now this is what they mean by 'shifting sands' on the navigation charts. This finger extends into the cut that leads into the ocean. I'd feel really bad if I ran aground here.

Ok, now this is what they mean by ‘shifting sands’ on the navigation charts. This finger extends into the cut that leads into the ocean. I’d feel really bad if I ran aground here.

Rose really liked these "slightly different" birds. So, I thought I'd share. They are "almost like our seagulls, but not quite."

Rose really liked these “slightly different” birds. So, I thought I’d share. They are “almost like our seagulls, but not quite.”

Sometimes new friends just drop in. This little guy just dropped into Mary's hair while we were touring in the Golf Cart. Unfortunately, he left the same way he arrived. He simply jumped off while we were still going down the road.

Sometimes new friends just drop in. This little guy just dropped into Mary’s hair while we were touring in the Golf Cart. Unfortunately, he left the same way he arrived. He simply jumped off while we were still going down the road.

It was windy...

It was windy…

... which made for some beautiful waves.

… which made for some beautiful waves.

The weather kept us in the harbour through Thanksgiving. Rose was able to do a stellar job cooking a 10 lb turkey in our boat's oven. She thinks next year we might be able to fit in a 12 lbs one!

The weather kept us in the harbour through Thanksgiving. Rose was able to do a stellar job cooking a 10 lb turkey in our boat’s oven. She thinks next year we might be able to fit in a 12 lbs one!

And Rob mixed up some deviled eggs because ...

And Rob mixed up some deviled eggs because …

... Pete and Mary were coming for dinner. Thanksgiving with Pete & Mary in exotic places is fast becoming a tradition. Last year we were in Portabelo, Panama. This year Hope Town, Bahamas. Sweet!

… Pete and Mary were coming for dinner. Thanksgiving with Pete & Mary in exotic places is fast becoming a tradition. Last year we were in Portabelo, Panama. This year Hope Town, Bahamas. Sweet!

What next to do while waiting on weather? Well, go to the races, of course. This is the 17th Annual Box Cart Derby held at "The Big Hill". Trust me. This photo makes the hill look a LOT bigger than it is. There aren't many big hills in this region.

What next to do while waiting on weather? Well, go to the races, of course. This is the 17th Annual Box Cart Derby held at “The Big Hill”. Trust me. This photo makes the hill look a LOT bigger than it is. There aren’t many big hills in this region.

Women, of all ages, were the dominate racers.

Women, of all ages, were the dominate racers.

And they're off! Pretty much anything with wheels that can roll down the hill is eligible.

And they’re off! Pretty much anything with wheels that can roll down the hill is eligible.

Even the Flintstones came out to race.

Even the Flintstones came out to race.

And there was room for the traditionalists.

And there was room for the traditionalists.

There was plenty to eat at the Derby. Hamburgers, Hot Dogs, Mac'n'Cheese. But for Rose, a craving mentioned just a few days before, FUNNEL CAKE! She was one happy race spectator.

There was plenty to eat at the Derby. Hamburgers, Hot Dogs, Mac’n’Cheese. But for Rose, a craving mentioned just a few days before, FUNNEL CAKE! She was one happy race spectator.

The people came out to support this annual fund raiser.

The people came out to support this annual fund raiser.

There were two wrecks. One spectacular one near the finish with multiple rollovers. The other, right into the stands where we were seated.

There were two wrecks. One spectacular one near the finish with multiple rollovers. The other, right into the stands where we were seated.

Fortunately, no one was seriously hurt in either car. Heck , these guys pulled their car from the stand, reattached the tire, and finished their course, skinned knees and all! Now, let's see that at Nascar!

Fortunately, no one was seriously hurt in either car. Heck , these guys pulled their car from the stand, reattached the tire, and finished their course, skinned knees and all! Now, let’s see that at Nascar!

After the races, Pete and Mary made their way back to the dock via bicycles...

After the races, Pete and Mary made their way back to the dock via bicycles…

... while Rose and her new friend Kimberly caught a ride with one of the racing officials. This woman has been participating in the races for 17 years, this year as a highly energetic checkered flag official. Loved it! Quite the show.

… while Rose and her new friend Kimberly caught a ride with one of the racing officials. This woman has been participating in the races for 17 years, this year as a highly energetic checkered flag official. Loved it! Quite the show.

Well, the weather finally started to calm down and we headed south to Lynyard Cay.

Well, the weather finally started to calm down and we headed south to Lynyard Cay.

Lynyard Cay, it's pretty much just like you'd like to imagine it. Just us and our boats... until about sunset when a dozen other boats showed up for the night.

Lynyard Cay, it’s pretty much just like you’d like to imagine it. Just us and our boats… until about sunset when a dozen other boats showed up for the night.

But for the day, we had it to ourselves. Both sides - Sea of Abacos and Atlantic Ocean.

But for the day, we had it to ourselves. Both sides – Sea of Abacos and Atlantic Ocean.

Lots of beach...

Lots of beach…

... and bathing beauties.

… and bathing beauties.

But, it's time to say adios, and head down towards Eleuthera. I don't know why, but I just like the sound of it. E-leu-the-ra. Fair winds.

But, it’s time to say adios, and head down towards Eleuthera. I don’t know why, but I just like the sound of it. E-leu-the-ra. Fair winds.